Whether you own a vintage Rolex watch and want to know its resale value or you’re looking to purchase one second-hand, this article will explore the four most prolific decades in Rolex history, providing you with insights on small details to look for, stand-out collections and expected price ranges. 

The History of Rolex

Since its emergence in 1905, founder Hans Wilsdorf envisioned a future of precise wristwatches and soon turned it into a reality in 1910, establishing a pattern of conquering the impossible. 

Crafted to endure the harshest conditions, Rolex has been present during some of the most monumental moments in history — from accompanying Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their ascent of Mt Everest to being James Bond’s first-ever watch — a vintage Rolex tells more than just time. Continuing to innovate, create and refine, Rolex has cemented its position today at the height of luxurious and immaculate horology. 

How much is a Rolex watch? 

A brand-new Rolex watch can be worth $8900 AUD to $237,500 AUD, depending on the collection's popularity, complexity of features and materials used. Decades ago, Rolex watches were worth a couple hundred, which is close to a few thousand in today’s prices. Now, vintage Rolex watches don’t have a specific price point. Two watches from the same collection can have vastly different values. From a few thousand to rising into the millions, vintage Rolex watches are priced according to their condition, rarity, history and unique details. 

Do all Rolex watches go up in value? 

Rolex watches are renowned for their ability to hold value and appreciate over time, typically more than any other watch manufacturer. While a vintage Rolex watch is generally expected to be worth more than its original price, not all vintage collections become more valuable than their brand-new counterpart. The primary factors that influence whether a watch appreciates, remains stable or depreciates include:

Condition

Vintage watches are graded according to how well they have been maintained over the years. They are typically labelled as unused, excellent, very good, good, and fair, with markings, scratches, and dents influencing which category they best align with. It goes without saying that the better condition your watch is in, the more valuable it is. 

Model

Rolex watches are distinguished by their reference number, which can be found on the outside of the case in the 12 o’clock position. This number is extremely important as it signifies the production era, collection and features. Some models, such as the Daytona, are typically more valuable, while others can be more stable or volatile, such as the Datejust.

Material

Each collection includes options for different materials, some of which include steel, oyster steel, everose, titanium, and gold. Vintage watches made from gold, particularly pink gold, are significantly more valuable. 

Rarity

With demand immensely exceeding supply, Rolex watches are known for their exclusivity. Different collections, however, are more rare than others, with some being released in extremely low numbers. While popularity is important in their value, a watch that is hard to find is especially expensive.

Unique details

With a vintage Rolex watch, small details make a big difference. While these details are specific for each reference number and collection, some common features that can increase a watch’s value include:

• Patina: While many signs of aging are not appreciated in the preowned luxury market, one in particular can significantly increase the value of your vintage Rolex. When a dial naturally fades from black to brown, this is called a ‘Tropical dial’, which is heavily sought-after by collectors.
• Dial details: In many cases, the dial is where the value lies. Every collection has its own details to look out for, including the colours of the text or collaborations with other brands such as Tiffany & Co.
• Documentation: If you have the original documentation of the vintage watch, it is important to trace its origins, which helps confirm authenticity and ownership. Documentation for particularly old watches significantly increases their value as they are rare. 

A Price guide for vintage Rolex models 

Discover some of the prominent Rolex watches crafted in the most revolutionary decades in Rolex’s history. Spanning from 1920 to the 1970s, if you own a watch from this time period or are interested in collecting one, this guide will help you navigate the most popular, valuable, and affordable vintage watches.

The early years: A time of innovation and momentum

A 1920 Rolex watch value

There were many historic breakthroughs made in this decade, with innovations that made wristwatches more practical, precise and reliable. Perfectly entwining elegance with functionality, 1920 watches can still be collected over a hundred years later. Most watches from this era range from a few thousand to ten thousand, with their primary value pertaining to their historical significance. Some of the stand-out watches from the 1920s include:

1920 Rolex Oyster

In 1926, Rolex created the ‘Oyster’ (later known as the Oyster Perpetual), the first dustproof and waterproof wristwatch. This watch was famously tested by English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, who crossed the English Channel wearing it — a swim that lasted 10 hours, with the watch working perfectly throughout.

1920 Rolex Oyster value:

As the origin of the iconic oyster case and style, this watch is in high demand, with many priced at a few thousand. This collection's gold and rose gold variations can range from tens to twenty thousand.

1920 Rolex Chronograph

Preceding the Daytona, the 1926 Rolex baby chronograph is one of the most lucrative watches of the decade. With a reference number of 6234, this watch was the smallest chronograph of the time, a monument in Rolex’s history. 

1920 Rolex Chronograph value:

The 6234 is one of the more valuable from this time, with many examples ranging from fifty thousand to hundreds of thousands.

1950s - 1970s: The golden era of watchmaking

1950 Rolex watch value

The 1950s is the decade that provided some of the most valuable Rolex watches and played a major role in making Rolex the dominant force in horology that we see today. From collections crafted for epic world-breaking accomplishments to simple, perennial designs that elevate any ensemble, this era is prolific on the second-hand luxury market. 

1950 Rolex Oyster Perpetual

The Oyster Perpetual rose to notoriety in 1953 when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay climbed Mount Everest wearing this collection. This became the standard for adventurers, athletes, and explorers who wanted a reliable yet sophisticated wristwatch that could withstand all conditions. 

1950 Rolex Oyster Perpetual value

Carrying the brand’s legacy, Oyster Perpetual is a must-have for every collector. With a contemporary, perennial design, watches made in the 1950s remain in style today. They range from approximately $8,000 to $75,000 AUD, depending on the collection, condition, material (Pink Gold is very rare) and small details, such as the ‘Tropical’ dial. 

1950 Rolex Submariner

One of the most prolific collections of the decade, the Rolex Submariner had eight references in the 1950s, distinguished by their unusually ‘big crown’. Risen to popularity thanks to the James Bond franchise, the Submariner is an iconic and lucrative collection. 

1950 Rolex Submariner value

Its most expensive reference number is the 6538, which was manufactured between 1954 and 1959. These can sell consistently for hundreds of thousands. The most rare model from this decade is the 5510, which was made in 1958 with less than 300 examples available worldwide.

1960 Rolex watch value

In an era of exploration and determination, Rolex was again crowned the first watch to descend the depths of the ocean, diving 10,916 metres with the Trieste in 1960. Further endorsed by some of the decade’s biggest names, the Rolex was on an accelerated path to unrivalled glory. 

1960 Rolex Oyster Perpetual

The Oyster Perpetual models crafted in the 1960s are typically more affordable than other collections. If you’re looking for an elegant yet practical entry watch to start your vintage collection, these timeless, simple watches embody Rolex’s classic style.

1960 Rolex Oyster Perpetual value

Many were crafted in 1965, with a reference number of 1500. While the condition and dial features can heavily influence the price, the 1965 Rolex Oyster Perpetual value typically doesn’t surpass ten thousand. In this collection, look out for the ‘Tropical dial’ and the material, particularly yellow or pink gold watches, which will increase their value.

1960 Rolex Daytona

For a more lucrative vintage watch, the Rolex Daytona watches made in the 1960s are one of the brand's most famous and sought-after collections, even 60 years later. As the world’s most popular sports watch, the reference number 6239 was the first iteration of the affectionately nicknamed ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona watch. Becoming a prolific collection, Rolex then produced 14 different versions of this watch. 

A good-condition Daytona watch from the 1960s can range from $70,000 AUD to a million. Some key details to look for are the material (14 and 18-karat yellow gold is very valuable) and an ‘exotic’ dial. ‘Exotic’ dials are a three-dimensional design produced every three hundred standard dials. This feature is extremely rare and valuable, with models in good condition going well and truly into the late hundreds of thousands. 

1970 Rolex watch value 

Continuing to revolutionise the watchmaking industry, the 1970s saw Rolex conquer another area of the earth — the poles. Besides aiding polar explorers, the Rolex watches created in the 1970s have a unique yet perennial impact on the luxury market, with many sought-after collections remaining popular and valuable over 50 years later. 

1970 Rolex Submariner

As a prominent watch of the 1970s, there are many valuable Submariner watches to look out for on the second hand market. Providing a sophisticated, expertly engineered sports watch that goes the distance, vintage Submariners typically appreciate in value.

1970 Rolex Submariner value

The 1680 Rolex Submariner is a popular reference number that is desirable for many collectors. Typically ranging from ten thousand to hundreds of thousands, there are a few details that can boost the price of this watch. One in particular is that in some watches within the collection, details on the dial were engraved in red instead of white or black. This rare feature significantly increases its value. 

1979 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust

As the first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch, the reference number 6917 is a highly sought-after historical artefact and luxury item. Fusing an Oyster Perpetual case with the classic Datejust design, this watch is a practical and sleek iconic timepiece adorned by many presidents. 

1979 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust value

These 1970s watches are typically more affordable than the Submariner, making them a great investment to start or grow your collection. With prices ranging from approximately $3,000 to $20,000 AUD, you can still be sure they are worth more than their original price. 

Shop preowned vintage Rolex watches at EMIER

Find the perfect second-hand vintage Rolex watch to add to your collection or elevate your style today. We provide a carefully curated collection of authentic Rolex watches in exceptional condition, many of which were featured above. Discover your perennial timepiece at our official website or our Melbourne stores.